Setting up the Fujifilm X100F for Street Photography


I’ve had a lot of requests over the last few weeks to describe the camera settings I use when I am out shooting on the street, so I thought I would take a few minutes to walk through how I set up the new Fuji X100F.  When you work with pre-production cameras there are usually several firmware updates leading up to the camera’s official launch, and since November I have updated the Fuji X100F firmware 4 or 5 times.  This has given me the opportunity to really think about what works the best for me when I am out shooting street photography with this camera.

(Note:  This is a gear post, through and through.  In part two of this series, however, we will look at some new Fuji X100F street photography I’ve shot recently in Seattle and Vancouver using the set up described in this post).

As we get started I think it is important to discuss my approach to shooting on the streets, which differs from other work that I do.   When I am shooting cityscapes and landscapes, I always shoot in manual mode, as I do when I am shooting portraiture.  In these settings I am not in a rush.  My sunrise / sunset / blue hour shots are taken locked down on a tripod, and I usually use off camera lighting when shooting portraits (which means my camera settings rarely change once they are dialled in).

The street is different though:  for me it is about the experience of immersing myself in an environment, constantly observing and then reacting quickly when a moment happens.  Barring a quick adjustment here and there, I don’t want to think about my camera at all when I am shooting on the street… I want to be focused on capturing the moment and trust my camera to do its thing.

With this in mind, here are some basic needs that guide how I set up my Fuji X100F for street photography:

  1. On the street, I shoot in Aperture Priority Mode and use Auto ISO (I trust the camera to determine proper exposure).  I tend to keep my aperture between f/5.6 to f/11, depending on how much light is available in the environment I am shooting in.
  2. If I do need to make adjustments to compensate for the light, there is a 99% chance that the adjustment will be made with the Exposure Compensation dial.  It is very quick and easy for me to observe a scene, decide what I want to do with the light and adjust the compensation with my right thumb as I am bringing the camera up to my eye.  Once you understand how your camera sees a scene, this is very simple to do.
  3. I use Auto-Focus about 80% of the time.   The remaining 20% of the time I will drop into manual focus to either pre-focus on a spot that a subject will be walking through, or, pre-focus to a given distance if I am working in tight in crowds.
  4. I shoot in RAW plus Fine jpeg.  I also love to visualize my images before and while I am taking them, so I switch back and forth a lot between Acros and Classic Chrome while I am shooting.
  5. I back button focus a lot.
  6. I usually shoot in single shot mode, but I’m not afraid to use burst mode and select the best frame if the situation calls for it.
  7. I want to keep the camera set up to be able to quickly access the Digital Tele-Converter.  I will not use this feature if I can shoot without it (as I do notice a very small amount of image degradation), but it is a nice option to have in a pinch.  In order to do this I need to be able to quickly switch my drive mode to single and also to switch to shooting Fine jpeg only (because the Digital Tele-Converter won’t work in RAW or burst mode).
  8. I occasionally use the two conversion lenses (WCL and TCL – the original versions), so I need to be able to tell the camera that they are on (or off) without diving into the menus.
  9. I usually wifi photos to my phone at some point through the day, either to mail to someone or to review and edit while I’m sitting down for lunch.

So, those are my basic needs when I am out shooting on the street.  Here is how I set up the X100F to be able to easily and quickly accomplish those tasks:

On the front


There are two main things here:

  1. There is now a function button embedded in the OVF/EVF Lever, which I have set to Wifi.  This is my least used function when shooting on the street, but it keeps it easily accessible at the same time.
  2. There is now the new front Command Dial.  This can be set up to control the ISO, the Exposure Compensation, or both.  On the street, however, I use Auto-ISO and prefer controlling the Exposure Compensation with the physical dial, so I actually don’t use the front Command Dial for anything.

On the top


This, right here, is why I love these cameras so much.  You have the entire exposure triangle, plus Exposure Compensation, completely at your fingertips with tactile knobs.  After all these years I honestly don’t know if I could go back to using a camera that doesn’t operate this way.

Let’s take a look at the top:

  1. As previously mentioned I set the Aperture to f/5.6 to f/11, depending on the amount of light I have.
  2. I have my Shutter Speed dial set to A.
  3. I have my ISO dial set to A also.  This configuration lets me choose my Aperture, then the camera maintains the exposure by adjusting the shutter speed and the ISO as needed.
  4. I ride the Exposure Compensation dial a lot when shooting, often to underexpose a scene when the light is harsh or when I want to create more shadow in an image.  This means I always need to check in between scenes to ensure I reset it to zero… something I have forgotten to do many times.  🙂
  5. I have the conversion lens selection assigned to this function button, so I can quickly tell the camera when the WCL or TCL lenses are being used.  This won’t be an issue for those of you who use the new versions of these lenses as they now auto-detect on the X100F, but with the older ones this is still a necessity.
  6. Finally, there is the Control Ring, which I have assigned to control the Digital Tele-Converter when I am in auto-focus mode.  When I want to use this feature, I drop into jpeg only and single shot mode (if needed… this is usually my default), then I can turn the Control Ring to select between 35mm, 50mm, and 70mm fields of view.  This is probably my least used function (tied with Wifi), but it is nice to have it quickly accessible.

On the back


There’s also a fair bit going on here:

  1. I have AF-L assigned to the Read Command Dial, so I can use it to back button focus.  For my hands this is a better position than using the actual AEL/AFL button.
  2. The X100F has the drive mode locked to the up button;  I use this to choose between single shot and burst mode depending on my needs (usually single shot).
  3. I have this function button set to cycle through the various film simulations.  I tend to “see” images in black and white or colour, so I will often quickly jump back and forth between Acros and Classic Chrome when I am out shooting.
  4. This function button is set to allow me to quickly choose RAW plus jpeg, or just Fine jpeg.  I normally wouldn’t assign this feature to a function button, but you have to be in jpeg only mode to use the Digital Teleconverter.
  5. I have this button set to cycle between the three Auto ISO modes, which I do often during the day.  More on this below.

How I use Auto ISO

img_9072-2(High tech cell phone photo)

My goal on the street is to have the camera maintain a shutter speed fast enough to freeze movement within a given scene, by letting Auto-ISO raise the ISO as much as needed to obtain a proper exposure.

This is situational, however.  A stationary subject may only require a shutter speed of 1/60th, whereas a fast moving subject might need 1/500th.

The way I achieve this is by assigning the ability to switch between the 3 saved ISO settings to a function button.  My 3 Auto-ISO settings are saved as follows:

  1. Minimum Shutter Speed of 1/60th, Maximum ISO of 3200.
  2. Minimum Shutter Speed of 1/125th, Maximum ISO of 3200.
  3. Minimum Shutter Speed of anywhere between 1/250th and 1/500th, Maximum ISO of 3200.

If I am shooting a static scene I may choose the first setting.  This maintains a minimum shutter speed of 1/60th, which helps keep the ISO down while still exposing the scene properly.

If I need faster shutter speeds to capture movement I select the 2nd or 3rd option based on how fast the subject is moving.  Depending on the amount of light the camera will select a higher ISO setting, but I will get an in focus image.

This is a quick and easy way of contextualizing Auto ISO to the scene I am in.

Performance and Battery Power

img_9075-2(High tech cell phone photo)

I’d rather let my camera perform to it’s highest level than worry about battery life, so I always keep my camera in High Performance mode.  I also almost always use the EVF or LCD when I am shooting.  These two things are guaranteed battery drains.

The thing is though, batteries are cheap.  And, on the X100F, I routinely average 500+ frames per battery.   With one or two extra batteries in the bag, or in a pocket, I am good to go.


Every scene is different:  in one I may want a lot of contrast, in another not so much, so I tend to keep my in camera settings flat (i.e. shadows 0, highlights 0, sharpening 0, etc) and use Lightroom to apply any simple changes I want.  My post production is minimal on street images though;  for example, here is a frame out of the camera, a jpeg shot in Classic Chrome:


And, here it is after less than 1 minute of processing which amounted to lifting the shadows, boosting the highlights a little, and some minor sharpening.


When you have the right light you really don’t need to do a lot of post.


There are so many ways to customize a camera like the Fuji X100F.  This is just my way, configured to quickly access the things I need when I am shooting on the street.  With the camera set up like this I don’t go into the menus at all.  I don’t even use the Q menu, as everything I need is assigned to a button or dial, ready to go.  It seems like a lot when it is all written out, but in the field it comes down to the occasional adjustment to Aperture, Exposure Compensation, or the Auto-ISO setting as needed for exposure control, occasionally switching back and forth between Classic Chrome and Acros depending on how I see a scene, and much more rarely using another feature like wifi or the Digital Tele-Converter.   This configuration works well for me and lets me keep my focus on everything happening around me on the street.

Next week, in part two of this series, we’ll look at a selection of street images captured recently with the Fuji X100F, using the above configuration.

Until then!


p.s.  Every time I post a photo, like the one at the top of this article, I get asked where I got the camera strap from.  It is a strap from my friends at Hyperion Camera Straps, you can find them on Facebook.  In a world of expensive camera accessories, they make a nice product at very cost effective pricing.  I am not paid or endorsed by them, but I think it’s nice to give a shout out to people who are supporting the photography community with good products and reasonable prices.

92 thoughts on “Setting up the Fujifilm X100F for Street Photography

  1. Ibarionex says:

    Thanks for this post. It reaffirms for me that the camera will fit right in to my way of shooting, especially we seem to follow pretty similar methodology. I have a chance to handle’s Rinzi x100F this weekend and a I like the slight increase in heft.

    • Ian says:

      My pleasure Ibarionex, I know you have been have been waiting for a X100 successor for a while and I think you’ll enjoy this one from our previous conversations.

      Oh, hey, I have my LA trip dates now. Would still love to connect if time allows.



  2. Sean says:

    As a person new to the Xseries world, this has been a wealth of information. Thank you Ian. I look forward to trying these settings, initially when I receive my X100F (F- “Finally” for me!) People speak very highly of the filters such as Classic Chrome and especially Acros. However, I’m always reluctant to apply filters initially as it may not be the look I eventually want. In post, I sometimes see something different I’d like to manipulate. Surely in Lightroom or in my case MacPhun, software, I could create a template to mimic the above filters? Would this not see a safer route (with the exception of course that you can “see” the final image already….I’m not quite there yet!)

    • Ian says:

      Hello Sean!

      If you shoot RAW you can also apply the film simulations in Lightroom after the fact… so no need for any other templates. It’s pretty awesome.



      • Sean says:

        Of course. Thanks. Does it have the option shoot raw/JPEG simultaneously? Also, is there anywhere selling the cam less then $1699 in Canada.? Even $100 off would be nice!

      • Ian says:

        It does, which is what many of us do. Set up the jpeg the way you like it, but also grab the RAW (I shoot compressed RAW) in case you want to make changes later.

        In regard to pricing, I honestly have no idea. My X100F is a pre-productional model directly from Fujifilm, so I haven’t looked at pricing or availability anywhere yet.

        Best wishes,


  3. Scott says:

    I love these types of posts which get people into someone else’s process. Thanks so much for taking the time and sharing your “secrets” with us all..

    Great example shot as well.

  4. Adrian says:

    Many thanks for a very interesting article. I’m not familiar with the X100 range as I use an Xt-2 and an XT-10 but wanted to ask about your auto focus approach. Do you use continuous auto-focus and a zone area?

    • Ian says:

      I rarely use AF-C, only because my specific needs don’t call for it very often. I do zone focus occasionally, depending on the situation.



  5. Dave Wilkinson says:

    Thanks for the info, I’m going on a Fuji photo walk this Saturday in Manchester with full use of the X100F to test.

  6. Juan says:

    Thanks for the post Ian
    I also use Auto-ISO but choose shutter speed, normally 1/500 to 1/2000 but even with that I get motion blur (the whole frame, so its not subject movement), any tips on how to avoid this, I know I’m doing something wrong but not sure how to fix that. thanks again

    • Ian says:

      It would be hard to say without seeing the images and knowing the context of how you were shooting, but it seems very strange to get motion blur at 1/2000th. Are you sure it is motion blur, and not a focusing issue?

      • Juan says:

        I’m guessing that because if I shoot in burst…. some of them are sharp some of them not sharp at all… but sometimes I get sharp pictures at 1/30…. so I have no clue, maybe I press the shutter to strong and tilt the camera?

  7. Matt says:

    Hi Ian.

    Thanks for your great article.

    You mentioned a slight degradation of image quality when using the digital TC. Since you also own the “real” TCL, did you compare the results from both solutions? The TCL is too bulky for my liking, but image degradation plus being limited to JPEG only seems to be a high price for using the digital TC.

    Best regards

    • Ian says:

      Good morning Matt,

      I use the Digital Tele-Converter when I am out and about, with no concerns. I would rather use real glass, however, if I was taking a shot for a client and I wanted ultimate image quality. The TCL is a little front heavy, but for me it only comes out when I am using it for a portrait.



  8. RogerB says:

    I shouldn’t of, but I did and now I’m in trouble. I read this excellent review. I’m off to a small road-trip holiday, my Domke F6 has the XP2, 14, 23, 35, 18-55 and I’m ready to go. I decided that for just the social outings on this trip the X100 should be along. Now that I have the XP2, I can’t “run” the X100. Wow what a not-so-subtle feature-creep between these generations of X100. I guess the answer is a X100F, but I’m going to have to clean the camera closet and jettison maybe another hobby/interest before that happens.

    Wonderful review.

    I’ve taken several extended holidays where the X100 was the only camera for bringing back the memories. When I scaled back my DSLR gear, I still needed some interchangeable lens flexibility, thus the XP2 and it’s slowly expanding kit. I’m waiting for the 55-200 to complete the kit. However, everytime I pick up the XP2 bag I’m reminded of how the X100 slips unobtrusively in my “man-bag” and I’m off. After two hard travel weeks in Italy another two in Turkey and many, many more on the street, with family and events I have no regrets on my X100 only events.

    As you so aptly demonstrate, what a great camera. It a natural mechanical extension to a documenter’s photographic vision.

  9. Immanuel says:

    Hi Ian. Thanks for your posts (I’ve been reading quite a few of them). I think this is a good time to give a little back, so here is a tip from me 🙂

    There is a slightly faster way to choose between film simulations. Use ‘custom settings’. CS1 uses CC and CS2 uses Acros or the other way around. If you assign it to the down button, one press will always give you CS1 (assuming it behaves like the X-100T, X-E2 and X-T1), and pressing twice gives you CS2. If you use the up button, you just set up CS1 and CS7, and you keep the 1 or 2 click efficiency. I really love that Fuji has chosen to always let the cycle start at CS1. It makes the procedure more automatic and less mental.

    Best regards
    Immanuel Kuhrt

  10. John Nicholson says:

    I found this article very helpful for thinking through my shooting parameters – and I don’t even have a Fuji ! So I’m saving it for continued learning. Thank you.

  11. Ish says:

    Hi Ian, great write up, very much looking forward to the release. I don’t normally pre order but I sold my X100T late last summer before any price drop, thinking the next generation wasn’t too far off then, of course, it was put off until now! I have an XP2 to keep me very happy but there’s something very special about this line.

  12. Russell Petcoff says:

    Great information on these posts about the X100F. I’m seriously considering getting one. I like to shoot street and spur-of-the-moment photos. What type of strap do you have on this camera in the top photo?

  13. Peter308 says:

    Great article Ian, thanks. My F arrives tomorrow – been without my T since I traded it in a couple of weeks ago. I will start with your set up as it seems ideal – maybe the only thing I will change is to assign flash / FEC on to the front viewfinder section button as I like to pop fill flash on sometimes while out shooting – it’s so good with the leaf shutter.

  14. Sean Rogers says:

    Ian are you sure one can “set up the front dial for adjusting the ISO.” I can’t seem find this option in the button/dial settings. If you could help me out that would be great, because the ISO dial is a bit challenging with my eyesight, shall we say!

  15. Sean Rogers says:

    It was a bit tricky, as there’s no place that allows one to assign something to the “front” command dial. It wasn’t working until I switched from auto to command. Thanks for the tip!

  16. David Rudd says:

    Ian, thanks for a very informative and enlightening article on setting up the X100F for street photography.
    In step #5: Basic needs that guide how You set up your Fuji X100F for street photography you mention using ‘back button focusing’ a lot.
    My question is how do you back button focus with the X100F.

    Thanks, in advance for your help!

  17. Dario D'Acierno says:

    Hi there! Amazing piece of writing. One simple questions:

    1. When i set AUTO ISO (6400max) with Aperture priority in 2.8 and i’m shooting in the night, the camera overwrites the minimum shutter speed and still choose long shutter exposure (like 1/4 etc.) Is there a way to fix it?

    • Ian says:

      Hello Dario!

      The way Auto ISO works is that the camera will raise your ISO to maintain your desired shutter speed, UNTIL it hits the ISO ceiling you requested. From that point the only way the camera can get a proper exposure is to start lowering your shutter speed.

      In other words: Auto ISO works as desired until it hits your ISO ceiling, and then your shutter speed is lowered to expose the image correctly.



  18. Patrick Jones says:

    Ian, A great article.
    I just purchased the X100F for a trip to Italy.
    Do set the camera for mechanical or electronic shutter or both?

    • Ian says:

      Hello Patrick!

      I only use the electronic shutter in select circumstances. My camera stays in mechanical shutter mode probably 99% percent of the time.



    • Ian says:


      My metering mode varies based on the situation. I would say, however, that I love in average mode about 90% of the time, and occasionally use spot metering.



  19. PAUL B says:

    Hi Ian, Love your instagram feed and site, very inspirational stuff. I am interested in getting into photography/street photography and have been reading various articles about it. You say your approach is to shoot in aperture priority and use the 3 auto iso settings at 1/60, 1/125 and 1/250-500 and switch to whichever one is appropriate. This is probably a really stupid question so apologies up front if the answer is glaringly obvious to a non noob but I am trying to understand why this is a good approach over using manual (setting aperture and shutter speed) but still having auto iso to control the ISO setting. To me, by setting a min shutter at 1/60, 1/125 and 1/250 on the auto iso setting are you not just telling the camera what shutter speed you want and letting the camera control the ISO to achieve that? is this not the same as just picking that shutter speed in manual mode in the first place (and letting the camera control the ISO to achieve that also).

    • Ian says:

      Hello Paul!

      There is a slight difference. Let’s say I have my camera set to f/8 in Aperture Priority Mode and Auto ISO set to a minimum of 1/250th SS with the ISO allowed to range from 200 – 3200. Now, let’s look at the following two examples:

      I enter an area that is darker. The camera will keep increasing my ISO to maintain my SS of 1/250th, up to a max of ISO 3200. At this point the camera will start dropping my SS below 1/250th to try to maintain a proper exposure. This is standard Auto ISO behaviour.

      Now, let’s say I come around a corner into a super bright area. The camera will hold f/8 and ISO 200, and will simply increase the SS to whatever it needs for the brighter exposure (maybe it is 1/500th, or 1/1000th, or 1/2000th, etc). Remember that you are setting a MINIMUM shutter speed, not a fixed one.


      Now, if we were to try the same thing by manually setting f/8 and 1/250th (with Auto ISO) let’s see what would happen:

      For the darker area the camera would increase the ISO to maintain exposure. This should function the same as Aperture Priority Mode with Auto ISO does as described above.


      Let’s take the same settings into the super bright area. The camera will hold f/8 and ISO 200, but can’t increase the shutter speed to compensate for the brighter light because we have manually fixed it at 1/250th. This will result in an overexposed photograph unless we manually adjust the shutter speed or the Aperture.

      Does that make sense?

      • PAUL B says:

        Thanks for the detailed reply, that makes perfect sense, it seemed a slower process to me particularly if you decided you wanted to switch from 1/250 to 1/500 as that would involve going through the menus to change the min shutter speed as opposed to just changing shutter speed from the dial but I had not considered about the automatic increase in shutter speed with your approach. Thanks.

      • Ian says:

        Hello again!

        The way I set my third Auto ISO setting (having a minimum shutter speed of 1/250th, 1/320th, 1/500th, etc) is purely dependent on how much ambient light I think there will be (I am always trying to get the fastest minimum shutter speed I can). It is summer now and I will have it set to 1/500th for the next few months most likely… the only time I would change it to one of the slower ones would be if I was out at night or in another low light setting.

        The other consideration is that you can switch between the 3 Auto ISO settings using a function button, so it is very quick to do so.

  20. Carlos says:

    Hey Ian, man what a great article! When you set the camera up for zone focusing, do you treat the lens as 23mm or 35mm when doing the calculation?

  21. andygemmell says:

    Hi Ian

    quick question….can you assign the front or rear dial to shutter speed change? I normally shoot in full manual mode and in the shop found the shutter dial quite stiff to turn if using this.

    thank you!


    • Ian says:


      Sorry for the delay in answering…

      If you put the shutter dial on T mode you can use the rear command dial to control the shutter speed. If you wanted to go full manual you could control aperture from the lens, ISO from the front command dial and shutter speed from the rear one.



  22. andygemmell says:

    Thanks very much Ian. That’s great. I’m in the camp who does like the execution of the ISO built into that top dial. I’d also use the shutter dial though it’s quite stiff and ergonomically not ideal imo.

  23. Mike Garcia says:

    Hi, Ian. I just received my X100F today! I’m very excited. Thanks for the terrific article. A couple of questions… (forgive me if you’ve answered this elsewhere): What are your thoughts on the use of a UV filter on the lens? Do you think a lens shade is necessary. Thank you, Ian!

    • Ian says:

      Hello Mike!

      Congratulations on your new camera. The only camera I use a protective filter on ins my X100F. For all of my other lenses I just use the lens hood, but given the “permentantly attached” nature of the X100F’s lens I feel better protecting it.

      For me the lens hood is a must, mainly for the reason that it enables me to grip the X100F the way that is comfortable for me. I will say though that this September I dropped my X100F on concrete in Paris and it landed firmly on the hood. If that wasn’t there I am sure there would have been damage.



  24. Dan says:

    Hi Ian
    I have a X100F and when trying to take a quick street pic the camera quite often won’t focus immediately and the lens just seems to move about for up to six or seven seconds. Often I have to turn the camera off and on. This is sort of killing my moment when taking the quick pic. Also when the camera is on but not in the process of taking a pic you can hear and feel movement inside the camera. Any suggestions on what might be happening.
    Compliments on an authoritative and informative site. Cheers

      • Dan says:

        Thanks for the reply Ian
        Yes I do have it on. A mistake? Had a read up about and cannot quite follow if it should be on or off. And also the pros of just using the mechanical shutter as you suggest?

      • Ian says:

        No, not a mistake at all. This is the constant sound you are hearing though, it is the camera constantly trying to acquire focus. I don’t use it personally, but there is certainly nothing wrong with it at all.

        In regard to the mechanical versus electronic shutter it is really just a matter of understanding the limitations of electronic shutters. They work by scanning the sensor one line at a time and then assembling the image. This process takes a little while to complete, usually in the 1/10th to 1/15th range, which means any movement in your frame during the capture can cause distortions to appear in your image and any lights that cycle can cause banding to appear. The electronic shutter is a wonderful thing, you just need to know when not to use it. I keep it off until it is needed, then I use it purposefully for situations in which it is appropriate.



      • Terry Hutchinson says:

        I believe what you are experiencing is the lag imposed when you first wake up the camera. I have my camera set to turn off after 2 minutes of non-use. As I bring it up to my eye for a shot, I half depress the shutter release to wake it up and give it a chance to fully function by the time it reaches my eye. If I don’t do this, yes there is a response lag as I wait for it to wake up and focus.

  25. Dan says:

    Thanks Ian
    I will check all my settings and have a play and get back to you. As I said, the main problem is when I go to take a quick pic the camera often gets stuck whirring about trying to focus and the result is a missed pic. Cheers Dan

  26. Dan says:

    I am getting a bit lost now. I thought I had it sorted but now when I get the focus beep, quite often there is a definite delay between pushing the shutter and the pic being taken. Any advice or have I just accidentally changed some setting.

  27. lorenzofranchini says:

    Great article! I have one question though. Why do you need 3 Auto ISO settings that have the same 200-3200 ISO range? At that point, isn’t it more useful to set ISO in that range and then change the shutter speed manually depending on the scene?

    • Ian says:

      Good evening,

      For me it is all about the minimum shutter speed. When it is bright out I will stay with the highest setting, giving me my best shutter speed. If I am in a darker area I will select options 1 or 2 to allow more light in by slowing the minimum shutter speed.

      I do shoot manual for many things, but on the street I want to think about my camera as little as possible (maybe just adding some exposure compensation or, as mentioned above, adjusting which Auto ISO setting I use depending on how much ambient light I have). Street for me is very left brain… I want to focus on the art and trust my camera to get it right.

      Thanks for commenting!



      • lorenzofranchini says:

        Makes sense 🙂 Thanks for the reply! So how do you judge the X100F in terms of picking the right combination of ISO and shutter speed?

      • Ian says:

        I have no concerns. I do think there have been a few times where it has picked a higher ISO than necessary, but I am quite confident in Fuji files taken up to ISO 3200 so I never worry about it.

      • lorenzofranchini says:

        Great – I just got the camera and I’m amazed by it. Can’t wait to try it on the street. Good night!

  28. Tony Keyworth says:

    If you do use the exposure compensation option then you should try allocating that function to the front command dial, you get a couple of extra settings and, in my experience, it’s in a convenient and natural position when the the camera is in use.
    Thanks for Auto Iso settings suggestions , will try those.

    • Ian says:

      Good morning Tony!

      How are you?

      I’ve tried both ways, but for me I prefer the top dial. I can usually judge how much EC a scene will need as I walk up to it and I like being able to look down and see where my settings are right on the top plate.

      Old school? 🙂



  29. Jim says:

    Regarding the highlight tone,shadow and sharpness and noise reduction settings are these something to experiment with when using Acros R

  30. STEVE GARRATT says:

    Hi Ian
    Just bought this camera and happened across you really useful article.
    Every review I have read makes much of moving all the buttons to the right hand side to facilitate one handed shooting, but for me, the reason is much more important than that.
    I am left eyed and the X100f is probably the most comfortable camera I have ever used as the viewfinder is on the extreme left of the camera which gives much more room for me to access the buttons.
    Almost every other camera from a Nikon FM2 which had the wind on lever almost sticking in my right eye to every other camera having the viewfinder in the middle has been a compromise to use.
    Not being well heeled enough for a Leica, the Fuji is ideal.

    Great article. Thanks


    • Ian says:

      Hey Steve!

      Many left eye shooters have expressed the same sentiment. The X100F really is an amazing camera for so many reasons, isn’t it?



      • STEVE GARRATT says:

        It sure is!!
        I’ve always had a 35mm lens on all my cameras, definately ‘my’ focal lengthy of choice.
        So getting used to the Fuji, but the results so far are wonderful.
        I think we’ll be best of friends!!

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